After a rather hair raising drive with a young girl who didn’t speak a word of English but with hand signals  and lots of smiles we were able to make ourselves understood.  With my Rusta music blaring in the back ground we arrived in Axum. On the twisting Pass we passed about two hundred camels tied from tail to bottom lip literally winding up the road beside us, the most marvelous sight, there were men walking in front, behind and in the middle.  We gave them our chocolate biscuits and water as I have no idea how far they had come or where they were going, but I am sure that it was a long trek.  As we got near to Axum my little girl leaped  out of the car and disappeared. So I managed to pick up an elderly man who took me directly to the smartest hotel full of rich tourists. What the hell and bugger the budget,  I was able to have a hot shower and wash my hair, after 4 days of not having water I was ready to sell Tracy for that pleasure.  Even though I am a whiz at top and tailing, it was enough. After yet another huge bowl of spog I tumbled into my lovely clean white sheets and slept like a freshly smelling baby.   Next morning I thought I hired a guide but instead he gave me another guide  who turned out to be too marvelous,  his contact details are  Hartom Tekle email hartomtekle4@gmail.com.  
I give this as he turned out to be absolutely wonderful, good English and very informative. We saw obelisks and underground tombs and rooms for hidden treasures. At one we went to a three hour long mass at the church of St Mary.  Now that was something!  I stood out like the tourist I am. It was mesmerizing the chanting for three hours was soporific. Hartom was able to whisper all that was happening, toward the end about fifteen families joined the service to have their babies baptized. One yelled because hunger got the better of it. I think the others were on something as not a peep was heard. The whole congregation, only women wore white -  a cotton  sari wrap and a few monks in bright yellow. I was thrilled as when they brought a bible round to be kissed I was included. After the service I was shown the covenant or where it is stored as no one ever sees it only one monk who is in charge. Sadly I was not able to climb the rock face to see the stone church but I will leave that for Anna and Lenard along with all these amazing mountains. I really felt it was a day that was complete and finished it with a huge bowl of  Tomato salad. Hartom brought me a man to drive with me up into the Simeon mountains who seemed a nice chap and we agreed on a price so that was dusted and done. I must say I have had half Ethiopia ring to offer their advice or offer a friend talk about a friend in need is a friend indeed!!!!!!!!!